“…Just glad my boots are on”: Towards a ‘Sartorial Theosophy’, Really

“I woke up in the morning…Just glad my boots are on."

---the Boss, 'Western Stars

Towards a ‘Sartorial Theosophy’

Any man who wants to learn how to live better with himself, with all the stuff that goes on inside, from light to shadow, might include in those reflections what he sees in the mirror.  I mean literally sees.  

I was walking down Mahabandoola Street in Rangoon in the middle 1980s near The Strand Hotel when I saw the street sign inviting review:

“Tip-Top Tailors, Sartorial Theosophists.”

 

I’m not making this up.  Somewhere I have the photo to prove it.  Real theosophy notwithstanding I confess to have thought a great deal about the matter since: how do clothes make the man?  What do they say and what are you trying to say?  Are you trying at all?  Do you care?  Should you?

 

These queries may nowadays seem as anachronistic as theosophy but I’m going to presume that if you are a fan of selvedge denim, fine footwear and especially boots, things like horsehide leather jackets, vintage and heritage wear, and most of the rest of what swirls around the Amekaji movements, you may already have your own sartorial philosophy.  Much of what follows is description of mine and something of a plea that will never reach those who could care less.  I’m not in the least interested in converting you to my views or influencing your style but I sure wish more guys actually had one.

 

 

My sartorial philosophy is straightforward no matter whether it’s dressed down Ivy at work or writing from home out here on our farm.  I prefer an inconspicuous elegance.  My purpose in all cases is to please myself.  I’m home a lot and go into public these days less frequently than ever.  But even in the heart of the pandemic I got up every day, cleaned myself up, and got dressed.

 

I understand not every man shares a passion for clothes, I can respect that.  I think about the men I admire who have shown an interest: my father and certain professional mentors, public figures like JFK, movie stars like Bogart, McQueen, Newman, the usual suspects.  I find far too many American men especially of a certain age have abdicated all interest if they ever had any and appear to me slovenly, heedless, downright unsightly.

 

It's one thing to come as you are and choose the easy path and quite another to look like nothing fits, like you just rolled outta’ bed, like you just don’t care.  You may say you have more important things to care about.  You may say, more arguably, that this is a vanity you won’t indulge and can’t afford.  I want to believe that caring a bit about yourself is also about trying to stay connected, not just for the impression we might make on others or for mere vanity but, dare I say, for self-respect and the difference that might make on the world.  The issue isn’t about money wasted much less spending a fortune but rather caring enough to care.

 

We’ve made caring about appearance a signal that one is either too much this or not enough that.  In my father’s generation, no matter where you worked or in what profession, there was more consideration, more attention paid simply to being neat and proper.  Look at all of those newsreels of guys at major league baseball games in suits, ties, and boaters.   I’m not suggesting a boater but I’d bet some of you could pull that off.

I’m not sure how we lost our way.  Could this be a further symptom of our current exacerbated incivilities, our angry politics, our lack of respect for others?  I’m rooting for a more elevated discourse, more grace in conversation, tolerance, indeed, deference and applause for choices that grant others their predilections too.

 

For my part, I’ve no reason or need to impress, much less imprint.  My profession usually regards fashion a distraction from its own self-important claims about the intellectual life.  Showing you care about anything worldly is frowned upon as a violation of our apparently ascetical vocation.  But two of my most important mentors, both men of personal privilege and Ivy education I must admit, took care to present themselves like their work with care and  and attention to detail.  They were generous with their time to create examples that carried into life and personal relationships, not just scholarly accomplishments.

Now I suppose everyone likes a compliment but as for me, I hope it does not arise from having drawn much attention to myself.  If someone cares to notice the boots or jeans, the OCBD on a work day, or any of the rest of the fit I hope it's because they share a discerning eye and care about some of the same things I do.  

 

I’ll avoid any accessory that draws particular attention, which is why I rarely reach for the fedora as much as I like a fine cover.   Whatever my own preferences to avoid singularity or signature recognition,  I would not project my tastes and predilections on others.  In fact, I dig seeing how others work their flex and make their statements especially if it’s not to my tastes.  I am interested in difference even though a lot of heritage and workwear runs towards conformity or sameness.  

 

 I confess to succumbing to the workwear uniform of selvedge, boots, leather, and a tee.  I once preferred more rock’ n’ roll, more streetwear cool or fancy branding, albeit discreetly.  But I never left the Amekaji Ivy that I didn't even know was a thing until I read the book.  That was just how we dressed and what I had learned from my father.  A personal rocker rebellion only wears well past 60 when you really are a rock star.  Skinny jeans are long over.  Even a close taper strikes me as better on you less grizzled and seasoned by time.

 

Achilles, Sarpedon and Glaucus, Arjuna, Karna & Krsna, Stephen Maturin & Jack Aubrey were all in some measure vain and made their bones by how they carried themselves into the battle.  I would like to be as dignified in a suit as Barack Obama, as cool in two jackets worn at the same time, one of them denim, as Bruce.

 

What you gotta’ try to do more than anything is allow those you admire to inspire, embolden, motivate, and hearten you to be yourself.  That is no small matter ‘cause being with yourself is going to get harder no matter how much better you get at living in your own skin.  In truth, the better you are at being yourself the more those questions, doubts, and shadows matter.  We’re not helpless to do make ourselves better human beings.  We can start just by putting our clothes on in the morning.